For Tasmanians, ‘the East Coast’ starts at Orford in the south and ends at St Helens in the north. Having explored the southern half of this region a little while ago, we took a second trip to visit Maria Island then explore the northern half of the region, from Swansea to St Helens. Using St Helens as a base we daytripped as far as Eddystone Point lighthouse, which is the southern extremity of Northeast Tasmania.
The ferry for Maria Island leaves from Triabunna, a little over an hour’s drive from Hobart. The ferry ride takes about half an hour each way. Visiting the island is a great day trip (we caught the 10 am ferry there and the 4:30 pm ferry back), though there is basic, self-contained accommodation and camping facilities on the island for those wanting to stay longer.
‘Maria’ (pronounced mar-i-ah) is a special place with great natural beauty, abundant wildlife, and a multi-layered human history. It has both a National Park with walking trails to suit all tastes, and the Darlington Probation Station which forms part of the World Heritage Australian Convict Sites.
The ferry drops you at Darlington and it’s a pleasant walk along the coast to the fabulous Painted Cliffs. Try to get here at low tide so you can enjoy them to the full.
A loop track heads inland, taking you past the ruins of Howells Cottage and the Oast House then back to Darlington.
From here we headed north on the path to the Fossil Cliffs, with great views towards the peaks of Bishop and Clerk, and across the tiny Bird Island towards the distant Freycinet Peninsula.
Looping back to Darlington we stopped to explore the cemetery and Convict Barn.
Arrived back in time to meet the last ferry then drove to Swansea and stayed at Piermont Retreat. A fabulous day.
It was a beautiful morning at Piermont Retreat and we lingered as long as we could.
Driving north we stopped at Douglas Apsley National Park , just inland from the popular seaside town of Bicheno. We walked to the waterhole on the Apsley River. The park protects an important swathe of dry eucalypt forest that otherwise would have been lost to logging.
There are plenty of great beaches on the East Coast and we chose Denison Beach to stop for a picnic lunch.
Drove on to St Helens where we stayed in accommodation on a farm at Pelican Point, overlooking Georges Bay.
St Helens doesn’t bend over backwards to welcome tourists, and you’re better off pushing on for another 10 kms to the beautiful Binalong Bay.
Coming back out of Binalong we turned right into Gardens Road (C848) which runs along the edge of the Bay of Fires. The road is a dead end but one well worth taking. Driving north we stopped at Swimcart Beach for a wander. Just before you reach The Gardens the road doglegs around Suicide Beach which (despite the gruesome name) deserves a stop for its spectacular views to the south.
The Gardens is a glorious spot and it’s just a delight to wander amongst rock forms covered in brilliant, orange lichen.
Back tracking to Binalong we decided to head west then north along Ansons Bay Rd (C843).
Ansons Bay is an impressive inlet with notable tidal sandflats. From there it isn’t too far to Eddystone Point lighthouse. The lighthouse guards the entrance to Banks Strait and guides ships past the offshore hazards of Victoria Rocks and Georges Rocks. To the aboriginal community Eddystone Point is known as Larapuna and in 2006 the Tasmanian Government issued a 40-year lease for the Larapuna lands surrounding the lighthouse.
Drove back to St Helens, then had a lovely dinner at Meresta Eatery in Binalong Bay. What a day.
It takes about three hours to drive from St Helens back to Hobart. We decided to go via the Midlands to visit a friend, rather than drive back down the coast.
It’s customary to break the journey along the Midlands Highway at Campbelltown which hasn’t been bypassed. This trip we decided to drive south for another 10 minutes and leave the highway to have lunch in Ross. We’d recommend it.
Ross is a very well-preserved historic town with many impressive sandstone buildings, and it’s listed on the Register of the National Estate.
It’s also home to the Tasmanian Wool Centre, which has a large woollen tapestry called “The Canticle, 1966” by the Australian artist John Coburn. We’re fortunate to own one of his paintings (called “The Picadors”).
After stopping off at a friend’s sheep farm in Oatlands, we arrived home in Hobart thinking about more trips to the East Coast.
