Foreign affinity

After many years of travelling in and around western Europe we decided to try something different. Japan was on our list of potential destinations and we seemed to go through a phase where every second person we spoke to had been there and raved about it. So we planned a month long holiday in the northern spring.

Australians of our generation had some exposure to Japanese history and culture. It was however largely through the lens of World War II in the Pacific and post-war economic recovery. The traditions of death before surrender, ritual suicide, and harsh treatment of prisoners of war, as well as the horror of two atomic bombs dropped on civilian targets. The trade in coal and iron ore exported from Australia and importing of Japanese electrical goods and motor vehicles that went from being viewed as ‘Jap crap’ to items of high quality and prestige within a generation. Sushi for lunch.

Visiting for the first time made us realise that the impressions we carried about Japan were quite superficial and stereotyped. Being there we found it to be complex and fascinating, contradictory in some ways and straightforward in others. For us the joy of travelling in Japan is that it’s so foreign yet feels so safe and comfortable. The attention to detail is amazing, from presentation of food to timetabling of trains. The effect is somehow spiritual. And it’s a photographer’s paradise.

Shinto and Buddhist

Japan has two main religions, Shinto and Buddhism. Official statistics indicate that 70% of Japanese practise Shintoism and 70% Buddhism, suggesting that many people practise both.

Shinto is a prehistoric, animistic cult confined to Japan. Objects, places and creatures are believed to possess a distinct spiritual essence and are venerated as gods called kami. For example, Inari shrines are dedicated to the kami of rice. People visit Shinto shrines (jinja) to pay respect to the kami and pray for good fortune, during festivals, and for wedding ceremonies.

Buddhism came to Japan via China in the late 5th to early 6th C. The adaptability of Buddhism meant that rather than compete with established Shinto beliefs it coalesced with them. The Japanese call this shinbutsu-shūgō which means something like the fusion of kami and Buddhas. Buddhist temples store and display sacred objects and some still function as monasteries. Japanese people tend to have Buddhist funerals.

Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines are often built next to each other and Japanese people see no inconsistency in worshiping Buddha and Shinto kami at the same time. The shrines and temples are however strikingly different.

Shinto shrines are lively and colourful, with vermillion, white, gold and green the dominant palate. Visitors write wishes on wooden plates called ema and pick fortune telling slips called omikuji. You’ll see these on display. There are often food stalls nearby. Buddhist temples tend to be much more calm and serene, often with beautiful gardens. A raked gravel, rock, and moss garden can be sublime.

We found this combination of contrasts to be quite wondeful, and distinctively Japanese.

Modern and ancient

The interior of Japan is mountainous and not easily habitable such that most people live in cities along the coast. The urban area of Tokyo city alone is home to almost 39 million people, making it the largest city in the world.

Japan is also at high risk of natural disasters. Four of the Earth’s twelve, major tectonic plates converge in the Japanese archipelago making it prone to earthquakes and home to eleven active volcanoes. These cause tsunamis, and the Asian monsoon brings typhoons.

As a result of natural disasters, along with the impacts of war, Japan has had to build and rebuild many times over to accommodate its huge population. Its big cities are therefore very modern and Japanese architects and designers have often been at the cutting edge. The prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize has been won by eight Japanese architects since it was inaugurated in 1979.

Yet just a quick ride by shinkansen (bullet train) will take you to some place in the mountainous interior that feels ancient. Like the Buddhist monastery town of Koya-san in the Kii Mountain Range. Or the Kasugayama primeval forest in Nara where logging and hunting have been prohibited since 841.

Japan feels both modern and ancient, steeped in mysterious traditions and driven to innovate in order to survive. It’s an intoxicating mix.