Tasman Peninsula

• The Tasman Peninsula lies about 90 minutes drive southeast of Hobart. It’s edged by remarkable sea cliffs and housed the notorious penal colony of Port Arthur, which is part of the Australian Convict Sites World Heritage Area.
• We timed our run to arrive at the Tessallated Pavement on low tide. It’s an intriguing geological feature that becomes dotted with fascinating rock pools when the tide is out. It lies just to the north of Eaglehawk Neck, a narrow isthmus that joins the Tasman Peninsula to the Forestier Peninsula and was patrolled by vicious dogs in the convict era.
• Our accommodation was on Brick Point, just south of the Port Arthur historic site. On the first evening we wandered out to nearby Point Puer which housed a purpose-built facility for juvenile male convicts, though little of it remains today.
• Driving further south the road terminates at Maingon Bay lookout, near Remarkable Cave (which was closed for track maintenance at the time, but seen on a subsequent visit – see below).
• This road skirts the lovely Safety Cove, with great views to Cape Pillar and Tasman Island.

• Next day was spent at the Port Arthur historic site. We hadn’t been there for many years, and found it to be very well-managed.
• The visit starts with a guided tour taking about 40 minutes and a short boat trip from Mason Cove to the Isle of the Dead and around Point Puer. This provides a nice overview. After an early lunch we then spent the afternoon wandering the entire site.
• Walking through the Government Gardens and past Government Cottage you reach the ruined Church, built in 1837.
• Passing several houses built for eminent people (the magistrate, chaplain, doctor, accountant etc.) you come to the fascinating Separate Prison. It was built in 1849, modelled on the Pentonville Prison in Britain.
• It’s no coincidence that the Asylum is next door, built in 1868. It houses a small museum with some interesting exhibits.
• Next stop was the Hospital, built in 1842. It sits high up on the southern boundary of the site.
• We then explored the Penitentiary, built in 1857. It’s the most iconic building on the site.
• Port Arthur was the scene of a terrible massacre in 1996, in which 35 innocents lost their lives. A moving memorial has been created within the shell of the old Broad Arrow Cafe.

• We were keen to do a Pennicott Wilderness Journeys Tasman Island Cruise, and the weather was suitable on the following day. It was a fabulous experience.
• Leaving Port Arthur there were rock spires and sea caves along the coastline. We rounded Cape Pillar and circled Tasman Island. We stopped to look at a seal colony then pulled in to a sheltered bay only to find a pod of Humpback Whales feeding on krill. Wow! Once in a lifetime stuff for us. Last stop was the spectacular Cape Hauy before we disembarked at Eaglehawk Neck and bussed back to Port Arthur. An unforgettable day.

• On our last morning we checked out Basket Bay then revisited the historic site to see the shipyard and walk out to Ladies Bay.
• Perhaps because the Tasman Peninsula is so close to home we’ve ignored it for many years. We won’t continue to make that mistake.

UPDATE

• True to our word, we took another trip to the Tasman Peninsula with family in early Autumn.
• Stayed at Stewarts Bay, just neat the Port Arthur Historic Site.
• We visited the aptly named Remarkable Cave (closed for maintenance on our previous trip).
• Revisted the Tesselated Pavement on the way home, stopping for coffee overlooking Eaglehawk Neck to admire the natural beauty of the Tasman Peninsula, and reflect on it’s brutal history.