The mix of Byzantine, Arab, and Norman influences on Sicily from 535 to 1194 created an incredible artistic and architectural heritage that is unique.
As part of Emperor Justinian’s plan to reunite the eastern and western empires, his general Belisarius took the island of Sicily in 535. Although Sicily had been part of the Roman Empire for 700 years, Belesarius was welcomed by a population that largely identified as Greek in language and custom.
Under attack for many years because of its strategic location between North Africa and Southern Europe, Sicily was finally invaded by Arab Muslims in 827. The island prospered under their rule, and Palermo became the capital.
The Norman conquistador Robert Guiscard and his brother Roger I gradually captured the island between 1061 and 1072, at which time Roger became Count of Sicily. The Normans were ferocious conquerors but adopted a concilitory appproach as rulers, embracing and building on Sicily’s Arab and Greek influences. Roger I died in 1101 and his widow Adelaide del Vasto ruled until 1130 when their son Roger II became King. He was an enlightened leader who ruled with distinction until 1154. Things gradually fell apart under his successors, William I, William II, and Tancred until Norman rule was replaced by Swabian (South German) rule in 1194. Which is another story…
Arab-Norman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Monreale and Cefalu are World Heritage listed in recognition of this unique history.
Palermo’s Palazzo Dei Normanni dates to the 9th C but what you see today bears the hallmarks of Sicily’s Norman rulers. The Capella Palatina (chapel) and royal apartments were designed by Roger II in 1130 and the combination of dazzling mosaics, marble inlay, and carved wooden ceilings in the Arab style (muqarnas) reflects a distinctive vision. We spent several hours trying to take it all in.
Another day we caught the bus to nearby Monreale, 8 kms southwest of Palermo. It is here that William II built a magnificant Catherdral designed to outdo his grandfather Roger II. Several different mosaic cycles cover the interior.
The Sanctuary including the main apse, north and south chapels has an enormous Christ Pantocrater (Almighty) surrounded by various, life-size saints.
The lower walls, columns, arches and ceilings of the interior are also beautifully decorated.
The Cathedral has a gorgeous Cloister with slender, inlaid columns, sculpted capitals every one of which is different, and elegant arches. The fusion of Byzantine, Arab and Norman sensibilities is fully on show in this space. We enjoyed taking our time to do a few laps of the Cloister before going back in for a second round of the interior.
The north and south walls of the central Nave are covered in the cycle of the Old Testament, with 42 stories represented.
The Transept includes the cycle of the life of Christ.
Taken as a whole Monreale borders on being overwhelming, and we left with our heads full and our senses heightened. It was amazing.
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