Our hotel was in the Yamashita district of Yokohama, south of the city centre. It was right on the waterfront so we could step out of the front door and just start wandering. On the first morning we walked along the waterfront parks, docks and piers into the city centre, discovering plenty to keep us interested on the way.
First stop was the Hikawa Maru, a 1930s passenger liner that’s been permanently moored and turned into museum.
We particularly liked it around Osanbashi Pier, a little further to the north. This is the site of the original stone whaves built after US Commodore Matthew Perry‘s ‘gunboat diplomacy’ suceeded in opening Japan to international trade. Osanbashi Pier has been expanded and rebuilt many times over 150+ years, most recently in 2002 when the Yokohama International Passenger Terminal was opened. There’s rich history behind the rocks, rust and rope that was interesting to explore. And we found the sleek lines of the modern, wood-clad Passenger Terminal particularly appealing.
Wandering on it was fun seeing young people out and about in the public spaces, expressing themselves in Japanese style.
As we approached the city the Landmark Tower began to dominate the skyline, made more interesting by an amusement park in the foreground. It’s the second highest building in Japan at just under 300 metres tall.
From here we entered into the labyrinth of Minato Mirai 21, a complex of shops, restuarants, hotels, and convention centres built on man-made islands that used to be shipping docks.
Nearby is the Yokohama Museum of Art designed by the famous architect Kenzo Tange.
01 Hikawa Maru
02 Pilot vessels
03 drink dispenser
4 rope
05 Yokohama Blue
06 blue Ma
07 Yokohama Blue #2
08 from docks towards the city
09 Osanbashi Pier
10 across Akarenga Soko to the city
11 pier worker
12 towards Yokohama Bay bridge
13 steps
14 entrance
15 the enforcer
16 Yokohama style
17 Yokohama moves
18 Landmark Tower #1
19 Landmark Tower #2
20 Museum of Art
Another day we checked out the red-brick warehouses called Akarenga Soko, which have been turned into a cool shopping precinct. We continued on into the city and the Minato Mirai 21 district.
Caught an early evening ferry back to the hotel, taking in views of the city in fading light. It gave us a real sense of Yokohama’s connection with the water as a port city.
Headed into Chinatown for dinner and wandered the steets and lanes. A central point in Yokohama’s Chinatown is the Kantei-byo Temple which is dedicated to the god of business.
21 Akarenga Soko, red brick warehouses
22 detail
23 towards the city centre
24 road markings
25 pedestrian overpass
26 ferris wheel clock
27 ferris wheel section
28 this way
29 Intercontinental Hotel, designed as a sail
30 Ferry back to the hotel
31 shoot the photographer
32 city from the ferry
33 all abord
34 approaching Osanbashi Pier
35 Chinatown, duck
36 Kantei-byo Temple
37 Temple #2
38 money boxes
39 Taxi lights
40 socks
On our last day we walked up to the Yamate district, known by foreigners as the Bluff.
First stop was the Harbour View Park. It’s a nice green space with good outlooks.
We visited the Yokohama Foreign General Cemetery which provides a really interesting perspective on the city’s history as a place where the Japanese re-engaged with the rest of the world from 1854. It’s managed by a Foundation and for a small donation the volunteers at the gate will provide you with map in English and Japanese. The gravestones of Americans, Germans, Britons, and French tell a story of materials, goods, knowledge, and ideas that were both imported and exported.
The western-style buildings in this area really stand out because they are so different to what you normally see in Japan. The Museum of Tennis, Yamate Museum, Christ Church, and Berrick Hall are prominent examples.
We walked back through the Motomachi shopping district and on to Chinatown.
We caught the train to Kita-Kamkura which is one stop north of the town centre then spent the day walking between temples and shrines. It was rainy and we had to manage around the weather, though we were never going to see all of the sites in one day. If you have the time, Kamakura is definitely worthy of a longer stay or repeat visit. It’s only an hour by train from Tokyo.
In 1180 Yoritomo Minamoto set up his base in Kamakura which has the sea on one side and is surrounded by heavily wooded hills. He was appointed shogun in 1192 and made Kamakura his capital. It remained so until 1333, when Kyoto again became the capital. The city then went through a long slow decline, being finally eclipsed in 1603 when the Tokugawa clan established their capital in nearby Edo / Tokyo. It was also heavily damaged in the 1923 Great Kanto earthquake. Much of what we see today has been lost then rebuilt over the centuries.
First stop was Engakuji-ji Buddhist temple. It was founded in 1282 and is one of the main Rinzai Zen temples in Kamakura.
Across the railway line, on the main road, is Tokei-ji. It’s a lovely Buddhist temple with a history as a refuge for women. It also has the most beautiful gardens. Moss and lichen cover every surface and all the shades of green were glowing in damp air.
61 Engaku-ji Temple
62 main gate
63 grand bell
64 Tokei-ji Temple
65 gardens #1
66 gardens #2
67 gardens #3
68 Buddha
69 head of Buddha
70 stairs to cemetery
71 engraving
72 cemetery
73 headstones and caves
74 tree trunk
After an excellent lunch we visted Jochi-ji Temple, right next to Tokei-ji. It is another of the main Rinzai Zen temples in Kamakura.
It has a beautiful entrance and we took quite a while climbing the stone steps, walking over the bridges, watching artists painting, and couples being married. The grounds are quite extensive and kept opening out into new and interesting spaces.
We particularly liked the Buddha safety cones.
75 Jochi-ji Temple
76 bridge
77 painting spot
78 wedding watcher
79 stone steps
80 temple grounds
81 cemetery
82 detail
83 detail
84 Buddha saftey cone
85 stairway
86 through the tunnel
87 laughing Buddha
88 moss cover
A little further south is Kencho-ji, which is highest ranked of the five main Rinzai Zen temples in Kamakura.
It was founded in 1253 and grew to have seven main buildings and 49 sub-temples. Most of these were destroyed in a series of fires during the 14th and 15th C. The temple precinct was restored under Zen Master Takuan Soho (1573-1645) with aid from the Tokugawa shogunate.
A number of buildings on the site today were dismantled and moved from Tokyo, Kyoto, and Skizuoka.
Last stop of the day was Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu, the main Shinto shrine in Kamakura.
All in all we had fabulous day and can’t wait to come back to Kamakura.
We caught a morning train from Yokohama to Shimbashi station in Tokyo, then spent the day walking west to Harajuku station and caught an evening train back to Yokohama.
We decided to just wander and see what we encountered, using green spaces as waypoints. Tokyo is so densely populated that you can go back to a district, walk through it on different streets, and have an entirely new experience.
Took in the modern architecture in the Toranomon district then stumbled into the Kotohiragu Shrine. Built in 1660 and now surrounded by modern skyscrapers, locals pray here to ensure family health, business success, and maritime safety. Like all shinto shrines it had empty sake barrels called ‘kazaridaru’ (decoration barrels) stacked outside.
Visited the Hisakuni-jinja shrine, dedicated to Hotei-son who is believed to be the god of happiness and prosperity. The shrine houses a sacred sword made by Hisakuni who was a master swordsmith during the Kamakura Period.
Highlight of the day was Akasaka Hikawa Shrine where we intersected with a wedding ceremony. It was fascinating to watch the ritual unfold, and enjoy the Japanese colour palette which is just sublime. The shrine itself is a survivor, having escaping multiple disasters that befell Tokyo including the Ansei Great Earthquake (1855), the Kanto Great Earthquake (1923) and the Great Tokyo Air Raids (1945). It also has a 400 year old Ginko tree.
Also visited Nogi Shrine, dedicated to and built on the property of the Meiji era army general and educator Nogi Maresuke. Following the death of Emperor Meiji in 1912, the general and his wife decided to prove their dedication to the leader by joining him in death. The General committed Seppuku while his wife slit her throat in the house right next door to the shrine.
For something different we had lunch in a very decent Italian restaurant and watched how the Japanese approach foreign cuisine.
It rained in the afternoon as we walked through Aoyama Cemetery then down the chic shopping precinct of Omote-sando.
We recovered well from the long flight and picked up the hire car mid-morning. It’s a four hour drive to Trikala and we broke it in half.
Stopped at Karmena Vourla on the Gulf of Evia for a swim and lunch. The tavernas have seating along the waterfront with their kitchens and other seating across the main street. Waiters dodge the traffic to bring you your food and drinks. It felt great to be back in Greece!
Arrived in Trikala, checked in then had a drink on the vine covered terrace. The town sits on a plain straddling the Lithaios river. Took a late afternoon walk to get our bearings.
Next day (Saturday) was the main event, visiting the World Heritage monasteries of Meteora which are built on top of rock pinnacles. It’s possible to visit the site using public transport, but it’s far easier with a car. We planned an anticlockwise route to visit five of the main monasteries.
Moni Agiou Stefanou (St Stephen) was first. Built in 1798 it sits at the end of the road with a spectacular drop off to the plain below.
Moni Agias Triados (Holy Trinity) was next. It has a cute little cable car to ferry people and provisions, and a less sophisticated winch system. It’s famous for being featured in the James Bond film For You Eyes Only.
Stopped at Psaropetra lookout to take in the full panorama. We could see down to Moni Varlaam which we visted later in the day.
Moni Agiou Nikolaou (St Nikolaou Anapafsa) was the next stop. It was built in the 15th C and is a great spot to see the geology up close. We lingered here to eat our lunch on a shaded terrace.
Moni Varlaam was next. It has a rope and basket system on display so you can see how things used to get in and out.
Moni Megalou Meteora (Great Meteora) was our last stop for the day. Founded in the 14th C it’s a large and seemingly prosperous monastery. The frescoes and major church building (katholikon) were most impressive.
Headed back to Trikala for the evening with our heads full and our legs weary. And kinda wondering, why?
Started slow on Sunday morning after a big day yesterday.
Drove out to Pyli to visit the 13th C church of Porta Panagia. It’s a beautiful building in a gorgeous setting.
The priest was getting ready for a baptism but took time out to tell us about its history. Originally it was a Greek temple. A medieval monstery was built on the site then destroyed by the Turks. The church was not destroyed, and he showed us doors that had been bricked up and turned into windows to stop the Ottomans bringing their horses in. He explained that in orthodox churches, icons of Christ are always on the right of the altar, Virgin on the left.
Nearby we saw the Portaikos bridge, an arched bridge built by the bishop/ Saint Bessarion II in 1514. It’s a very elegant structure.
The south bank of the river is shaded by trees and there’s a cafe and restuarant. Lots of locals had driven or ridden out there for a drink or something to eat. It was a lovely spot to linger for a while.
Headed back to Trikala for the afternoon/evening. This ended up being a very pleasant day. A nice change of pace from yesterday.
Next day (Saturday) was the main event, visiting the World Heritage monasteries of Meteora which are built on top of rock pinnacles. It’s possible to visit the site using public transport, but it’s far easier with a car. We planned an anticlockwise route to visit five of the main monasteries.
Moni Agiou Stefanou (St Stephen) was first. Built in 1798 it sits at the end of the road with a spectacular drop off to the plain below.
Moni Agias Triados (Holy Trinity) was next. It has a cute little cable car to ferry people and provisions, and a less sophisticated winch system. It’s famous for being featured in the James Bond film For You Eyes Only.
Stopped at Psaropetra lookout to take in the full panorama. We could see down to Moni Varlaam which we visted later in the day.
Moni Agiou Nikolaou (St Nikolaou Anapafsa) was the next stop. It was built in the 15th C and is a great spot to see the geology up close. We lingered here to eat our lunch on a shaded terrace.
Moni Varlaam was next. It has a rope and basket system on display so you can see how things used to get in and out.
Moni Megalou Meteora (Great Meteora) was our last stop for the day. Founded in the 14th C it’s a large and seemingly prosperous monastery. The frescoes and major church building (katholikon) were most impressive.
Headed back to Trikala for the evening with our heads full and our legs weary. And kinda wondering, why?
Started slow on Sunday morning after a big day yesterday.
Drove out to Pyli to visit the 13th C church of Porta Panagia. It’s a beautiful building in a gorgeous setting.
The priest was getting ready for a baptism but took time out to tell us about its history. Originally it was a Greek temple. A medieval monstery was built on the site then destroyed by the Turks. The church was not destroyed, and he showed us doors that had been bricked up and turned into windows to stop the Ottomans bringing their horses in. He explained that in orthodox churches, icons of Christ are always on the right of the altar, Virgin on the left.
Nearby we saw the Portaikos bridge, an arched bridge built by the bishop/ Saint Bessarion II in 1514. It’s a very elegant structure.
The south bank of the river is shaded by trees and there’s a cafe and restuarant. Lots of locals had driven or ridden out there for a drink or something to eat. It was a lovely spot to linger for a while.
Headed back to Trikala for the afternoon/evening. This ended up being a very pleasant day. A nice change of pace from yesterday.
Left Trikala and drove east towards the Gulf of Thessaloniki. Passed through a narrow gorge called the Vale of Tempe, between Mt Olympus and Mt Ossa. Historically it was of great strategic importance and is quite spectacular.
Visited the crusader castle of Platamonas finished in 1222. It sits in a commanding position above Panteleimon beach, which beckoned us for a swim and served up a very decent seafood lunch.
Next stop Ancient Dion. Lying in the shadow of Mt Olympus it was a sacred place of the ancient Macedonians. It’s a sprawling archaeological park that’s easy to walk around, though much of it is given over to swamp. Reached Veria late afternoon.
We stayed in the old jewish quarter of Veria, called the Barbouta. Our hotel sat above the Tripitamos river that runs through the city. It was a delightful spot.
A main reason for coming here was to visit the World Heritage royal tombs at Vergina, including the 336 BC tomb of Philip II, father of Alexander the Great.
It’s a truly magnificent site. The burial mound (tumulus) has been excavated out to create a museum in situ. Several original tombs can be seen in chambers leading off a central area that has all of the treasures from the tombs on display in illuminated cases. The whole thing is brilliantly executed and we found it very affecting. If you’re ever in this part of the world, do make the effort to visit.
Drove back to Veria and spent some time in the Byzantine Museum. It’s housed in a nicely restored mill and has a great collection of religous paintings.
The museum had an exhibition on the Greek/ Egyptian poet Constantine Peter Cavafy. For music buffs, Cavafy’s poems have been used in songs by Leonard Cohen, Donovan (Leitch), and the Australian band Weddings Parties Anything (fronted by Mick Thomas).
Another main reason for coming to this area was to visit the site of Pella, capital of the ancient kingdom of Macedon.
Pella is one of those sites where the physical ruins aren’t particularly spectacular, but there’s an atmosphere that seems to spark the imagination.
The excellent museum attached to the site helps to explain the vibe, with expanses of wonderful mosaics and displays of glittering burial treasures.
We drove back to Veria via the town of Edessa. It’s a place of water, full of waterfalls, rivers, streams, bridges and fountains.
Before leaving Veria we checked out the old cathedral, deconsecrated and under restoration as a museum, and the archaeological museum.
Then drove to Thessaloniki via Potamos beach on the Halkidiki peninnsula.
Dropped off the hire car at the airport and headed into the city to check in to our hotel.
We spent four very enjoyable days in Thessaloniki. It’s a city of substance that has a deep, rich history. It doesn’t feel the need to put on any airs and graces, and we really liked that.
One day we explored its Roman heritage and visited the Archaeological Museum.
Another day we took a ‘Byzantine’ slice through the city, checking out the churches and monasteries, the Byzantine Walls, and the Byzantine Museum. This was a fantatstic day.
For the rest of the time we kicked back, wandered around the waterfront and ate in some excellent restaurants recommended by the young crew who ran the hotel we stayed in. All in all a great time.
The Roman Agora built in 1 AD sits nonchalantly in the middle of the modern city. It was built on an older Macedonian commercial centre from 3 BC.
When it comes to Roman Thessaloniki, Emperor Galerius is the man. It was the base he used for most of his administrative actions. He built the Rotunda as a future mausoleum (though didn’t get to use it), and the Arch of Galerius and Palace of Galerius bear his name.
We spent an afternoon in the very fine Achaeological Museum. It steps through the history of Macedonia from pre-history to about 400 AD.
Thessaloniki was established in 315 BC by the Macedonian King Cassander, and named after his wife who was the daughter of Philip II. It’s said that 26 nearby settlements were unified to form the city, and burial artefacts from these settlements represent a core part of the collection. The Derveni Krater is an outstanding piece.
The wall painting ensembles, mosaics and frescoes of Thessaloniki’s Byzantine churches and monasteries are among the great masterpieces of Early Christian art, recognised as World Heritage Paleochristian and Byzantine Monuments. This heritage stems from its strategic location, and its role as capital of the eastern Roman empire under Galerius. Thessaloniki morphed into being the ‘second city’ of the eastern empire (behind Constantinople) when east and west were permanently split by the Emperor Theodosius in 395 AD. Under Theodosius the city’s Byzantine Walls were commenced and the Roman Rotunda of Galerius was converted to a Christian Church and decorated with high quality mosaics.
We spent a day zigzagging between the ancient churches and monasteries, gradually climbing up to the old walls that sit high above the modern city.
On the way up we visited Agia Sofia (750 AD), Church of the Acheiropoietos (470), Agios Dimitrios (634), Latomou Monastery (Osios David, 490), and Vlatadon Monastery (14th C).
After a well-earned and delightful lunch behind the Byzantine Walls, we visited Agios Nikolaos Orfanes (14th C) on the way down to the Byzantine Museum.
What a day…
Thessaloniki is a coastal city. It has an extensive waterfront that’s very lively and we walked it several times during our stay.
The White Tower is a major landmark at the eastern end of the old waterfront. ‘Cafe boats’ depart nearby. For the price of one drink (or more if you like) you get to cruise around the harbour for a while.
At the western end of the waterfront is Ladadika, an old commercial district. There’s a couple of nice churches in this area, St Catherine and Agios Apostoli, as well as some remnant byzantine walls.
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